
Useless to say, there are LOTS of bookshops in London
G. left for Greece last weekend and I accompanied her to London, from where she was flying off, and decided to spend a few days enjoying the city for what would be the last time in a while. I had lots of fun looking at beautiful art in London’s numerous free museums, visiting the Science Fiction exhibition at the British Library, lunching on bread and creamy cheddar (as only the English can make it) in leafy squares, going to see a play or two, and reading in quiet, cavernous pubs (the British Isles, of course, is the only place in the entire world in which you can read in a bar without looking ridiculous). For a purchaser of books as incorrigible and compulsive as myself, London also offers pleasures (or dangers) numerous and varied; therefore, this was my last opportunity to get some good book shopping in before I leave England for good. It was about time I paid a visit to some of London’s most renowned bookshops. Here they are, in no particular order:
HATCHARDS:
I came to Hatchards with high expectations. After all, this respectable institution is the oldest bookshop in London (founded in 1797), and holds no less than three royal warrants. People like Oscar Wilde and Lord Byron have shopped there. Both the interior and exterior are superb, all dark wood, and the thing that immediately struck me upon entering is the amount of signed copies of recent, important titles they have. It’s obvious that many very big authors come to sign books here. Other than that, I was quickly disappointed. Although they have a decently large poetry section (not all that surprising in the UK, however), their selection of fiction titles was obvious, and, to be frank, of average quality, while I spotted a conspicuously large quantity of celebrity memoirs in their biographies. I found Hatchards offered the experience of a bookstore more than a bookshop: an emphasis on quantities of books as merchandise, rather than on books as beautiful, interesting, and highly individual products. This may not be entirely surprising, since Hatchards is owned by the same people as Waterstones. It may be good enough for the Queen, but unfortunately, I expected a little bit more, especially from a place that announces so much.
LONDON REVIEW BOOKSHOP:
This was my second visit to the bookshop associated with the London Review of Books. It’s a clean and bright place, on two floors, just a stone’s throw from the British Museum. What makes the shop really special is its amazing, and very intelligent selection of titles; tables and shelves are overflowing with interesting and unexpected books. They won’t have many copies of one title, but they make up for it by having a multitude of titles, so if you’re looking for many books by one author (which is what happened to me when I fell upon Tim Parks’ most recent novel and wanted to see what else he’d written) you’ll be pleased, and also left with difficult choices. NYRB books and other curiosities abound in the fiction section, but the non-fiction shelves are equally well stocked in books that are varied, fascinating, and obscure (and they have a really good Ancient Classics section downstairs, which always pleases the classicist girlfriend). I also recommend visiting the London Review Cake Shop, next door; it’s busy and a little noisy, but they’ve got a great selection of teas and rich, decadent cakes.
DAUNT BOOKS
The large booksellers chain Waterstones is in big trouble in the UK, and it was sold by HMV to Russian businessman Alexander Mamut just a few weeks ago. People have generally found this to be a good thing, injecting a new direction for the store and its 300 branches. The man Mamut placed at the head of Waterstones to redress the company is James Daunt, founder of Daunt Books (there’s a great interview with this humble, clearly brilliant man here). I visited the Marylebone shop (the first shop Daunt opened, there are now several other branches), which is beautifully adorned with skylights and long, wood-paneled rooms. I was initially confused by what all the fuss was about, because although the books were well displayed, there was nothing really interesting about the titles themselves. Then I reached the gallery at the back and understood; in this section of the store, on three floors, the books are organized by geographical region. It’s brilliant. At the top of each region’s bay (they are all represented, as far as I could see, from the polar regions to the Balkans) you’ll find travel guides and language books at the top, and then as you move down the shelves there will be history and political science books relating to the region, and finally novels that either take place or were written by an author who comes from there. This requires impressive product knowledge by the staff — for instance, there was one copy of Jonathan Littell’s The Kindly Ones in Germany, and another one in France. I found it was a superb way to explore books, by focusing on a place or destination, and broadening out to all kinds of written works related to it — talk about traveling from your armchair. The only negative point I have about Daunt books is that their Canadian bookcase, downstairs, is poorly represented by non-travel books. All I found were two or three novels that looked really boring and some history books. No Cockroach, by Rawi Hage, or Mordecai Richlers, which portray Montreal so vividly. No Alice Munro. Not even a Margaret Atwood. For shame!
PERSEPHONE BOOKS:
Persephone books is a really great London based publishing house specializing in rediscovering neglected 20th century writers, mostly women. An added plus is that the books they make are extremely elegant: perfect format, simple typeface on quality paper, dove-grey covers, and beautiful end-papers and matching bookmarks which use fabric patterns that relate to the stories (for instance, the endpaper from one of the books I bought is taken from a furnishing fabric the author bought for her flat in the 1970s). The whole thing — beautiful designs, small publishing house, high quality standards, rejuvenating lost books — almost sounds to good to be true. But it’s true, it’s true. Now, their small locale in Lamb’s Conduit isn’t exactly a bookshop, because they only sell their own titles, but one can spend a good deal of time perusing through the 93 items on their catalogue and choosing (no without some difficulty) which ones to take away. I picked up a gift for G. and a collection of short stories by Diana Athill (whose memoirs I’ve praised so much in the past), which was how Athill first started out as a writer.
TATE MODERN SHOP:
The Tate Modern is a fabulous museum for he or she who appreciates modern art (although I am not that person, I still had an agreeable hour there), and the shop downstairs has everything from prints to designer mugs. Come for their selection of books on art, art criticism, and design, which is stunning. Hours of pleasure looking at pretty, glossy pictures. Unfortunately, there’s no place to sit.
I realize there are a myriad of excellent bookshops in London, but sadly I only had three days. Hopefully I will discover many more when I come again. The problem I have to face now is that a book buying spree probably wasn’t the best idea at the end of a year spent living abroad; I have to bring all these books with me back to Montreal… I’m ready to sacrifice some clothing, if that’s what it takes to make enough room in my luggage!